We sell one of these four things, so read this with that in mind. It is also why it is worth writing honestly: if you bring us a job DTF is wrong for, you will be unhappy with the result and we will have earned it.
The short version
| Method | Wins when | Loses when |
|---|---|---|
| DTF | Short runs, full colour, mixed designs, any fabric, any garment colour | You are printing 500 of one design in two colours |
| Screen print | High volume, few colours, lowest cost per piece at scale | Under about 50 pieces, or every piece is different |
| Heat transfer vinyl | One or two flat colours, names and numbers, very small quantities | Photographs, gradients, fine detail, or anything with many colours |
| Sublimation | All-over prints, softest possible hand, polyester | Cotton, and any garment that is not white or very light |
Screen printing
Ink pushed through a stencil, one screen per colour. The economics are entirely in the setup: burning screens and registering them costs the same whether you print thirty shirts or three thousand, so the per-piece price falls off a cliff as volume rises and is punishing below it.
Choose it when you are running a few hundred or more of one design with a small number of flat colours. Nothing beats it there, on cost or on the feel of a properly cured print.
Do not choose it for forty shirts, for a photograph, or for a run where every piece carries a different name. If you already own a screen operation, DTF is the thing you hand the jobs that make your press sigh.
Heat transfer vinyl
Coloured vinyl cut to shape, weeded by hand, pressed on. Cheap to start, no printer required, and genuinely good for a flat one-colour mark.
The limit is labour and colour count. Every additional colour is another layer, cut, weeded and aligned by hand. A three-colour design in vinyl is slow; a photograph is impossible. Anyone who has weeded the inside of a script letter at eleven at night knows exactly which jobs should have gone to DTF.
Vinyl still wins on player names and numbers, on single-colour text where you want that particular flat matte vinyl look, and on one-off jobs where you already have the material on the shelf.
Sublimation
Dye turned to gas under heat, bonding into polyester fibres. There is no layer sitting on the garment at all, so the hand is nothing — the print is the fabric. All-over designs that run off the edge of the shirt are a sublimation speciality and DTF cannot do them.
Two hard constraints, and they are not negotiable. It needs polyester or a poly-heavy blend, because there is nothing in cotton for the dye to bond to. And it cannot print white or lay down a light colour on a dark garment, because the dye is translucent and the garment shows through. Sublimation on a black shirt is not a thing.
DTF
The design is printed onto a film in full colour, a white underbase is laid behind it, adhesive powder is applied and cured, and the whole thing is pressed onto the garment. The underbase is the reason it works on any colour of anything.
What it is actually good at: full-colour artwork with no colour-count penalty; cotton, polyester, blends, fleece, canvas and denim without changing anything; dark garments without a separate white layer in your file; and short runs, because there is no setup to amortise. Thirty pieces of one design and one piece each of thirty designs cost the same per square inch.
What it is not: the cheapest way to print five hundred two-colour shirts — that is screen printing, and it is not close. It is not weightless either; a large solid print has a hand you can feel, less than vinyl, more than sublimation. And it is not forgiving of a bad file, because there is no operator translating your artwork into screens along the way. What you send is what presses.
Where people actually go wrong
- Using DTF for a large solid back print on a lightweight tee. It works, but a 12 by 14 inch block of solid ink is a noticeable layer. Break the design up, or use screen print.
- Expecting sublimation softness from DTF. Different physics. DTF sits on the fabric; sublimation becomes it. Our film presses softer than most and it is still a film.
- Quoting DTF against screen print at 500 pieces and being surprised. Quote it at 40 and the comparison reverses.
- Sending a 72 DPI logo. Vinyl cuts a vector cleanly at any size; DTF prints exactly the pixels you gave it. The artwork guide is the fix.
The cheapest way to settle it
Print your design once, on the blank you actually sell, and wash it five times. A single transfer by size costs a couple of dollars. Every opinion in this article is worth less than that test.
Settle it with one transfer
Print your design once, press it on the blank you actually sell, wash it five times.
Order a single transfer